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Post by sprocket on Jul 7, 2012 21:05:45 GMT -6
I have used Soda cans they are generally .003 ..from the side of the can...OK for valve gaps if you have nothing else, but feeler guges are like $4.00
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Post by sprocket on Jul 5, 2012 15:04:55 GMT -6
You will flatten the battery in a couple of hours doing that...are you testing AC with the engine running? Check the yellow wire from the stator to the rectifier, you should have about 15+volts on it...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 5, 2012 14:58:34 GMT -6
Might adjust your air/fuel mixture..it makes quite a difference to the way my Lifan starts
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Post by sprocket on Jul 5, 2012 14:41:09 GMT -6
I would go with a flat slide Mikuni..but they are an expensive way to get a bit more power and be prepared to mess with jets for a few weeks to get it tuned in
I would look at up-gearing the tran
There are A15 around, but you may have use titanium valve springs...certainly NCY makes them...but they aren't cheap.
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Post by sprocket on Jul 4, 2012 14:51:00 GMT -6
Hope the car wasn't running when you jumped the scooter battery... if it was running you have likely fried the regulator...
On the battery issue test the voltage on the thin red wire on the positive battery terminal...you should have 13.5++ volts DC. It is the wire with the fuse inline
Also check the green ground wire from the engine to the frame..clean the point where it attaches to the frame very well, attach the wires again and cover the area with silicone to prevent corrosion.
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Post by sprocket on Jul 4, 2012 14:38:15 GMT -6
Probably AC powered you need to have the engine running to generate power for the headlight...try that and measure AC not DC.
Most scooters have both AC and DC power. The DC is usually only for small running light, brake lights and running the starter.
Different brands use different power which makes it a HUGE guessing game...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 4, 2012 10:18:36 GMT -6
Hard to kick start adjust the valves...the battery has no effect on kick starting...the stator was replaced but could also not be the right match for the regulator...there are a number of different types.
A mismatch usually shows up as either...dim or no headlights at idle or no battery charging...this would be my guess...
SYMs are a little funky also...they may have just used GY6 parts, which causes trouble...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 4, 2012 9:56:04 GMT -6
You should only have 750 ml ( about 3/4 quart) of oil in a GY6 engine..putting in a full quart will over pressurize the sump...and either blow gaskets and seals or cause blow-by etc.
Compression check first...just takes a minute and you can get a guage cheap at Harbor Frieght etc...make certain it has an adapter for a lawnmower sized plug...that is what these engines use...
Do the diagnostic first, these engines are far more complex than a two stroke...and get a shop manual, there are some on this forum. Do you know how to set the ring gaps and stagger them on the piston or hone the cylindar walls, set top dead center and mark the cam chain, align the cam sprocket, disengage the chain tensioner?...yes it matters...read the shop manual first...
Also see Bashan's tear down thread...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 3, 2012 17:12:40 GMT -6
How much oil do you have in the crankcase?
It could be blow-by but check the easy things first..then run a compression check on the engine
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Post by sprocket on Jul 3, 2012 16:00:18 GMT -6
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Post by sprocket on Jul 3, 2012 15:53:39 GMT -6
Use the one that works the best..or buy a third, they are cheap..
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Post by sprocket on Jul 3, 2012 15:47:30 GMT -6
I agree with alley looks like a valve cover leak..need to replace the o-ring gasket or take it apart, clean it really well, run a good 1/4 bead of red silicon around the cover, leave it set-up for 2 hours, then put the valve cover back on...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 2, 2012 16:15:36 GMT -6
Save your money..I known lots of people over the years that have tried computer heat sinks, with fans and exotic heat pipes even peltier coolers, and thermochips to run the fans based on heat differentials...
They all failed sooner or later...keep the shroud...
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Post by sprocket on Jul 2, 2012 16:03:33 GMT -6
The bottom one is fine...as far as extension is concerned..run it at 10 volts that should slow it down...it should take 3 minutes to fuly extend
Maybe swap heater parts..you should be fine
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Post by sprocket on Jul 1, 2012 18:26:51 GMT -6
Woah! there is major defect somewhere...it has to be pumping oil into the cylinder...valve stem seals, maybe? There just isn't much of a way to get that amount of oil into the cylinder..it has to come down from the head, or up from the sump...
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