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Post by imnts2 on Apr 15, 2012 18:19:25 GMT -6
Save your money and put it away to buy the best quality of these parts and then sell your old 50cc machine and combine the moneys and get at least a good quality 150cc. Lots of reasons but my guess is you have to make the mistake before you can understand them.
Good luck
lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 14, 2012 6:14:54 GMT -6
Seems your float valve is not opening. sticking? Binding? Probably the best fix is a new quality Carburator, but I probably would not rest till I fixed it. Cheers
lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 4, 2012 16:48:25 GMT -6
Start with the question: what works well and what does not.
Start and ride and stop well. Decent idle, power, top and good stable braking? Tires good. Smooth acceration and at power.
Cools good?
Everything works. Lights, turns stop chargeing.
Any maintenance records?
if not, change all lubs pronto and change out aintifreeze.
And get a service manual.
Cheers
lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 4, 2012 5:19:29 GMT -6
Yep. Bet Alley is right
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 4, 2012 5:14:55 GMT -6
YOu need water cooled it you want to ride anywhere near WOT.
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 3, 2012 8:17:04 GMT -6
I am not a fan of using the kick starter more than absolutely needed. They just are not built for daily use on most modern scoots
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 3, 2012 8:13:25 GMT -6
Awhile back I made the mistake of telling someone to turn an engine backwards. Sprocket caught it and explained there was a device in the valve assembly to prevent the engine from running backwards that would lock the exhaust valve open if you turned the engine backwards. I understood that it would require some disassembly to repair it.
Frankly it made no sense to me. A 4t cannot "run" backwards. It could fire once BTDC and spin backwards but not "rum" but I have yet to catch sprocket wrong (I Might not all ways 100% agree) but wrong - never!!!. And there is a mechanism there that I have no other explanation for. So - I think he is right even if I do do not understand it. Cheers
Hope that helps
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 2, 2012 13:59:53 GMT -6
I know you have some really good help working with you on this one, but I note you have not said you have a VOM. do you? If not your need one. Harbor freight
You did a lot of work so I am sure we all hesitate to make you do things over but I will.
Have you got a new plug? A real NGK? Get a blanket over you. It is easy to not see the spark.
Did you ever figure out what it was that failed the first time? Of did you change all at once?
Now I will shut up and watch what happens.
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Post by imnts2 on Apr 2, 2012 13:48:03 GMT -6
Have you got a local Harbor freight. if so , a decent VOM and 12V test light will cost less than 10bucks.
I use a small lawn tractor battery for working on the scoot. Saves fooling around a lot with a little battery till I got it right..
Good luck.
Sounds like this have been a bit of an adventure.
I am not sure you got the idea of shorting across the solenoid right. If you have a good battery and a good starter you should have gotten a big fat spark that darn near welded the screwdriver to the solenoid. You should have been shorting across the 2 biggest cables on the solenoid.
Cheers'
lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Mar 31, 2012 3:16:42 GMT -6
You might check the PAIR system. They are tricky and will screw up running badly. Particularly at near WOt.
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Post by imnts2 on Mar 27, 2012 3:01:35 GMT -6
Tell us some history. How long have you had the scoot. Miles on it when you got it and now. recent history. How long set up for the winter. Etc. Something is making the valve stick. Probably bent from hitting the piston. How many miles on the new cam? probably put together wrong when you put the new cam in - or the cam is not right. Is it the original head or a new head to match a BBK.
Got the idea?
Cheers
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Post by imnts2 on Mar 25, 2012 8:07:06 GMT -6
I have to admit my experience is very limited compared to the guys here, but I have had 2 engines in a row that liked a little upjetting. both were 150cc GY6's. Of course, I suspect running lean was more or less built in (perhaps to meet emissions). Of course, both had PAIR systems that may have needed cleaning. I learned a long time ago, most engines like being a little rich at WOT. They run a lot cooler which rarely hurts, particularly with the soft heads common of china 150's. I note that the water cooled 250's rarely require repeated valve adjustments like the air cooled 50's and 150's do. Of course, that could be diferences in the materials used in the valve train.
For 3 bucks, it is to cheap not to try.
Guess I am cautious about rules of thumb.
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Post by imnts2 on Mar 25, 2012 7:40:04 GMT -6
sounds like a plan.
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Post by imnts2 on Mar 19, 2012 9:40:02 GMT -6
A scoot is probably great for going to work and back - till it rains. sure, you pop up gas prices and - who knows. but my bet is for most of us, the car is still the grocery wagon, runs for most any shopping etc.
of Course it is a great excuse to get a fun machine with a bit less fuss from the lady. And she will get her mind on something else soon enough and pretty much forget it in a few months.
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Post by imnts2 on Mar 13, 2012 9:24:11 GMT -6
From what I see and hear, I am not at all confident it is worth the hassle of changing and maintaining. I really like the clean air a stock air cleaner gives. Perhaps a well maintained foam filter is equal but it also is noisy and not the kind of sound I like. I frankly think "performance" exhaust is also grossly overrated- but gosh I like the sound of some of them.
I have yet to see any real repeatable 3rd part test reports. Lots of anecdotal reports but not 3rd party. Even the manufacturers do not have any lab tests to share that I have seen.
If you really want more power, get a 250 with water cooling and 4 valve heads for probably less money than buying a used 150 air head and trying to get it to have power. If you want the sound cheap and have access to welding ( wire or gas) build your own exhaust., .
Of course I am not talking about limited displacement racing.
lrfty2
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