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Yes I more or less said that. but getting glasses on with the full face helmets I have tried is a bitch. In fact, I even when up a size or two and still struggled so much my guess is that a lot of the time, it would stay in the trunk. Which is a lot less safe than even an open face. Besides, it you ever rode in our muggy summers you would know why an awfull lot of our guys are riding with modular's. So I am trying to find out if anyone has discovered a particularly well done (strong) modular lock system I also have been told the newer European certification seems to be a higher standard than even the snell certification. anyone know anything about that?

does anyone have a modular helmet they feel is strong enough to survive serious accident? I like the safety of the full face helmets, but I have yet to find one that is reasonably easy to get glasses on with it on or that ventilates really well. Our Gulf Shores summer are really hot and humid.

Open to ideas
Thanks always.
lefty2

You both have been helpful. Thanks. Still got more to learn. I am guessing something also was done to the ignition. Yes or NO?

Yes I agree about removal. I wonder if the California people have to undergo anual emission tests or inspections?

Again thanks.
Lloyd

Good idea. thanks

Sorry runningslow. Not fixable?

Gosh that is sad.

lefty2

The GY6 engine is noted for not having stable clearances. Many of them go through a period of months - adjust the valves, run it a few minutes, hours, sometimes even days, and then off again. I have had to adjust valves on the same engine every 2 or 3 miles at times. And I am one to double check the clearances after I ajust them etc.

As a result, whenever I am trying to solve hard starting on a GY6 I start with checking compression. If you don't have a compression gauge, I recomnend one.
But if you don't want to spring for one, I would then start with valve adjustment. Even if I had personally adjusted them myself the same day. And for sure I would do that if you told me you had adjusted them because I trust very few people to do it as well as I would.

So - adjust the valves. Set them at .OO4" intake and .005" exhaust. That may be a little noisy, but you can always tighten them a little if they don't tighten themselves pretty quickly.

After you have adjusted then turn the engine over by hand a few times (Always turn the engine only clockwise( viewed from the flywheel side) and recheck . A guage .001 smaller than you set them should pass thru easily. And one .001" thicker should not go thru at all.

The first time you adjust them, remove the lock nut and the adjusting screw and clean carefully with lacquer thinner or carburator cleaner and then put a drop of blue lock tite on the screw.

Do not overtighten the valve cover bolts when you install the cover back on.

When you adjust use 2 wrenches. I use a small (2" long) vice grip to turn and hold the screw while I lock the lock nut VERY TIGHTY with a metric box end.

Here is a lead to the general procerdure:http://scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=125ccandlarger4strokegy6&action=display&thread=22784