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Post by mapbike on Aug 1, 2010 20:28:01 GMT -6
Yes I made the tensioner but had to go back and modify it so that it would not swing down so far when starting the engine by popping the clutch, the chain would get to much slack in it and come off uch of the time when starting the motor. my head lights on the country cruiser are 50w halogen MR16 bulbs powered by a 12v 7ah battery like yours, only have a little over an hour of lights before the battery needs charging but It only takes me 45 min. to get to work on the bike when I ride it to town so I have lights the entire way and they are very bright which is very important for night riding on a main highway. There are some very good belt drive transmissions for your 4 smoker out here now, one of them is called "Whisper Drive" and another one is made by "EZ Motorbikes", I am really enjoying my scooter but I still enjy my motorized bicycles also.
Happy safe riding to all......!
God Bless, Shan
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Post by mapbike on Aug 1, 2010 19:03:32 GMT -6
Has anyone here, that has removed all the emissions stuff noticed any HP/excel./top speed gains that can really be felt or seen, or is it mainly just an improved MPG mod. on these scooters?
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Post by mapbike on Aug 1, 2010 19:00:46 GMT -6
Thank you sir, this is what I had planned to do but I wanted to know what everyone elses trial and error on this was befor I started yanking things out.
Shan
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Post by mapbike on Jul 31, 2010 20:00:49 GMT -6
Thanks, I have not looked at it all very closely yet but mine does have the chrome tube for the Exhaust Gas Recirculation.
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Post by mapbike on Jul 31, 2010 19:33:38 GMT -6
I have a 2008 Roketa MC-74 150cc scooter that I ordered from Sunny Sports in Chino California, mine came with all the emission control junk on it and I would really like to get rid of all of it I can, they don't check any of that stuff here in Texas and I know that it normally take power away from anything that it's on, I notice that most all of the pics of the engines I've seen on this forum only show the PCV fitting coming out of the valve cover and not that many engines with the EGR Valve set-up like mine.
Any good advice on how to get rid of this junk will be much appreciated, I want to get all I can get out of my scooter, Power, MPG, ect.
Thanks in advance, Shan
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Post by mapbike on Jul 31, 2010 19:24:38 GMT -6
Thanks for the great how-to on checking for a short, I never thought of doing it that way.
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Post by mapbike on Jul 30, 2010 20:02:45 GMT -6
well guys I was gonna go over and do the test on the 50cc scooter this evening but it is over 100 degrees here in central texas and I left home this morning @5:10AM on my 16 mile trip to work on my scooter after only getting about 2 1/2 hours of sleep last night and I got back home this evening at 6:40PM and was just to tired to mess with it, it may be Tuesday before I get to run the test but I will get my results posted here on this thread just as soon as I know something.
Yes I am aware that the battery has nothing to do with the firing, and yes we charged the battery alone unhooked from scooter and it held a good charge for 2-3 days but when it was connected back to scooter it was dead in about 15-20 minutes, the reason I have been including both items in my questioning of the problem is because the battery started running down and the scooter was getting harder and harder to start about 2-3 days before it got to the point it is now, my brother said that it was loosing some power it seemed also, so bty this It seems that this was a problem that started small and then progressively got worse over just a few days until it would no longer start and run at all, it just seems odd that it all started with the battery not staying charged after the scooter sat for a little while and then now not only will the battery go dead after being connected the scooter after a short while but now it also has that weak orange spark at the plug and will not even try to start up, wow..... it is going to be very interesting to finally see what is causing all this mess, this bugger is really gonna be a doozy looks like.
Thanks again, Shan
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Post by mapbike on Jul 29, 2010 22:36:11 GMT -6
I think you are right about the battery being weak, when hooking it up there isn't a spark I did look close and check that earlier, I will do the test on the stator and if it shows to be good based on that test then I'm not sure where I go from here on it but I may pull the flywheel cover off and check to see if maybe the key on the flywheel is sheared which I would think would throw the engine out of time and could also be something to consider, I dont know what else I would check and would think at that point that it must be an internal problem with valve train or back to the lack of enough compression for it to run. I just cant get past the bright orange spark at the plug.........this is the puzzler to me, new coil, new cdi, still weak orange spark, I just keep coming back to ignition problem or possibly timing issue..........I will know about the stator maybe tomorrow evening, even though I will be tired and it will be hot out, I will probably run over and do that test on the stator, this thing is driving me up a wall, funny things is it isnt even mine, I'm just trying to help out because I'm the only one that knows very much about it and I know very little at this point about these scooters.
Thanks Again, Shan
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Post by mapbike on Jul 29, 2010 22:06:11 GMT -6
The 66cc (sometimes called 80cc) 2 stroke kits for motorizing your average bike can be bought for about $140. The 49cc (4 stroke) kits cost about $300 to $400 depending on the type of transmission you want. Basic 2 strokes have a manual clutch while the 4 strokes use a centrifugal clutch which is mated to either a belt (toothed or v-belt) or gear transmission. Here's my MB with an early 4 stroke kit which is being updated to a v-belt (Q-Matic) transmission. This setup can easily be geared for over 40 mph and typically gets at least 175 to 180 miles per gallon.  Great job on that build, that is a nice clean looking bike that I'm sure you really enjoy. Shan |
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Post by mapbike on Jul 29, 2010 22:01:36 GMT -6
Yea I really like my motorized bikes, I ride them to work sometime just for fun and it is a 32 mile round trip and I start out in the dark at 4:45AM in the morning and run about 30mph average for 16 miles. I have not built a bike with the 4 stroke engine, I have stayed with the 66cc 2 smokers for the price and simplicity factor, they do require so tweaking and some upgraes before they are reliable rides and normally some fabrication is required to get them mounted and set up correctly, but they are good fun and something that many people have never seen, I road one of my bikes to town one day and went over to my local bike shop and the owner went crazy over the bike and was taking his customers out side to see it, the bike in the pic I listed in the original post cost me about $450 to build, I added brakes, I used a spocket on the rear that was acrank sprocket off of a 16" kids bike it has 36Teeth and will run that bike in the 42-43mph range WOThrottle, most all of the kit sprockets are 44T which is good for power up hills but revs the engine very high @ 30MPH in my experience, theres more work than one might think involved in building one of these right but they are fun to cruise around on and make a very good conversation piece everywhere I go.........the pic in this post is of my first build which is for sure a country boy cruiser with all kinds of junk on it to make it suitable for a longer trip day or night, been on the back roads so bike is very dirty in this pic. Attachments:
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Post by mapbike on Jul 29, 2010 20:12:42 GMT -6
I went and looked at it again a while ago, I knew my dad had put the battery on charge and disconnected it from the scooter by removing the positive cable from battery post, this was before you guys had posted the above info. and the link for instructions on testing the stator, I took my ohm meter and did do some tests not really knowing for sure how I should be testing it....... but what I did was put my meter on DC voltage setting and then I put one probe in the red wire with black stripe and then put the black probe in the blue wire with I think a yellow stripe that come directly out of the stator wiring, I then reconnected the battery and cranked the engine over and it would show13+ volts then jump to19+ volts very irratic for about 2-3 seconds and then it would show 0 voltage from that point on, the battery had set for a couple days now after being charged up real good and seemed to have plenty of juice until I left it hooked up to the scooter for a while and then in went dead again, I went over the wiring fairly good as for what I could see and get too, cant find a short anywhere but even though the battery may be weak and need replacing it is being drained down very quick if left connected to scooter.
I'm wondering if there is a connection continually between the stator and the battery through the voltage regulator or is there a cut out between the two until the stator sends current to the regulator which in return regulates that voltage to the battery, I'm just trying to figure out if possibly the stator is where the short may be that is draining the battery or if that is even possible, I just dont know how this stuff works on these things, electrical issues are the worst for me because I am very limited in my knowledge of these systems, I know the mechanics of an engine very well been building small engines of many types for 30 years, but I have never had to trouble shoot on these types of systems before.
Thanks for the link jrryan, I will do the tests outlined on that page and see what I come up with, I have to work 12hrs a day for the next 4 days so it may be next Tuesday before I get to do the test and post my results but you guys just watch this thread and I will be back on it ASAP......!
Thank both of you both who have chimed in on this issue I appreciate it very much and I know that the info. I have been getting from you will help guide me to resolve this problem and get that little scooter on the road again.
I will still be on the forum each evening bugging you'all with other stuff, only difference is I'll be asking questions about upgrades to my scooter and not on my brothers broke one.....!
Thanks again, Shan
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Post by mapbike on Jul 29, 2010 17:01:41 GMT -6
I put a new hotter coil and a upgraded CDI on my 150cc scooter about 2 days before I was told about the 50cc scooter having a problem, I went over to my dads house and looked it over thinking maybe it was a fuel issue, so I pulled one of the vacuum lines off the intake and sprayed a little wd-40 in it and tried to crank it, and nothing, wouldnt even try to start! I put my finger over the exhaust opening and had my dad crank it over to see if I got exhaust pressure on every stroke or on just every other stroke like it should be, it was doing as it should and I could smell the wd-40 at the tail pipe, we removed the fuel line to the carb. and cranked it over and it pumped gas so we knew we had gas getting to carb. I then remove the spark plug wire and put plug in it, grounded the plug and had it cranked over, it had what looked to be good steady spark but it was an bright orange color which in my experience is usually a cold spark that is to weak to run a small engine, that is when I desided to go and get the coil and cdi that I had just pulled off my scooter and try it out on the 50cc to see if one of those 2 items may have gone bad, after changing them out the results were the same weak orange spark and no run-E........!this is the point that I thought that the stator may be the problem, it would not keep the battery charged and may be sending such a small amount of voltage to the coil that it could not muster up a good hot spark, I would think that if the stator was only putting out a fraction of the voltage it is suppose too that the coil would not get what it needs to produce a god hot spark to the plug, that is why I had come to this conclusion.
Now on the compression topic, I can feel the compression rise as the piston reaches TDC while pushing down on the kickstarter but it seems fairly easy to push it past the compression stroke with only a slight change in resistance this is what worries me, this engine did not just quit while it was running, my dad did say that my brother told him that it seemed to have lost some power a day or so before it got to where it would not start and run after he had gone to town and shut it off, I dont know if they tried to jump it off or not I'm thinking that if they did this may have burned up a coil on the stator possibly and this may be why the spark is weak. what do you think about this?
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Post by mapbike on Jul 29, 2010 16:21:09 GMT -6
Ok I will do that, thank you again for the advice on how to go about getting the scooter were I want it to be.
Shan
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Post by mapbike on Jul 28, 2010 22:06:57 GMT -6
I know for a fact the coil is not bad, I took it off my own running scooter and did the same with the CDI so I know that they are both good.
I do have a question about kickstarting the 50cc Velocity Scooter I'm messing with for my little brother though, this scooter has only got about 300 miles on it but I can reach down with my hand and spin the engine over real easy with the kickstarter and I am wondering if that is normal on the 50cc engines, because I know there is no way I could do that on my 150cc scooter, I am very concerned that it may not have enough compression to run and maybe the orange spark is not the problem and it may be something much worse that weak spark....!
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Post by mapbike on Jul 28, 2010 21:55:35 GMT -6
this was starting to get a little comfusing here, I was originally uder the impression that just as you said the lighter weights was the way I needed to go but then I kinda got turned around I was under the impression that the 1 gram heavier weights would not hurt my low end if I was using the sliders instead of the stock type rollers, thank you for clearing this up for me, what I will do is check first to see what weight rollers I currently have and then I will just order a set of sliders that are 1gram lighter, and if I think I would like to go even lighter I will then order a set that is 1 gram lighter again and then I can mix & match or what ever I need to do to get it in the ratio that fits my needs best, I live in Central Texas and we have a lot of hills here in what is called the hill country, they are not mountains of coarse but we do have some pretty good hils all around me, my scooter does real good at takeoff most of the time and then other times it acts like it gets stuck in the higher range and is taking off sluggish like the variator is not returning to the lower ratio starting position, is this a problem on the stock variators sometime?
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