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Post by jerryscript on Aug 7, 2015 17:01:03 GMT -6
When I was looking for my 150, I first searched for websites selling it. I then checked the BBB for both the site's company name, and the registered domain owner (take BBB complaints with a grain of salt, only be concerned with verified claims of fraud, or multiple complaints of the same nature). I then searched the website and company names together with the words "review" and "forum", paying close attention to forum posts. I narrowed it down to two companies based on my search results. One was in California, the other in Carolina IIRC, I live in Nevada so I went with the California dealer. I've been very happy with both my purchase and the buying process I went through.
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Post by jerryscript on Aug 4, 2015 13:20:17 GMT -6
Glavey, you were right on the money! I just checked voltage at the battery while idling. It showed 11.94v, while the voltmeter installed on the panel showed 10.3. Quite a difference. Looks like I didn't have a problem after all. My wires might burn up, but I at least won't get stuck with a dead battery!!! Jerry, it's an easy mod. Remove the two screws holding the switch case together (the rear, with the mirror, should remain on the handlebars) and use an Xacto knife to cut the plastic tab. I forgot which of the two tabs I cut. I likely cut the easier of the two to get to. Works like a charm. BTW, still enjoying the hell out of this bike. The aching back (and neck) is doing much better with the 16" wheels. Hope your still enjoying yours too. Absolutely loving it! I have over 3000 miles on her, and haven't had any major issues. I get compliments on her everywhere I go! |
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Post by jerryscript on Aug 3, 2015 22:32:12 GMT -6
If you're not familiar with this scooter, it has a low beam headlight on the left and a high beam on the right. The headlight switch allows you to choose either beam. The switch also has a spring-loaded setting where both beams are on at the same time. I really like having two headlights, so I adjusted the high beam as low as it can go, and cut the small plastic tab that holds the spring, inside the switch. Now I have a three-way switch, and am able to keep both headlights on. I also no longer have people telling me I have a headlight out! This is my first scooter where the stock bulbs (when using both) give enough illumination, and I didn't have to replace with better bulbs. The problem, as you might guess, is the voltage when both lights are on, is lower than 12v. I haven't had a problem draining the battery so far down as to cause a problem starting, but I can see that happening at some point. The tail-light is already LED, so there's nothing I can do there to save juice. There are two small "parking light" type bulbs under the headlights, which I supposed aren't needed with two headlights on at all times. Would it be worth it to take those bulbs out, or possibly replace them with LEDs? I supposed a new, higher quality rectifier would help also. Using a rectifier from Oregon Motorcycle Parts helped my last scooter, so I guess it would help here too. Any other ideas? They give you a bit more sideways safety illumination at night on the side with the headlight turned off. If you have both headlights on, they become pointless, so I would remove them to save the juice. I'm going to cut that spring loose too, always wanted a three-way switch, thanks for the tip! |
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New Paint Job
by: jerryscript - Jul 24, 2015 11:24:06 GMT -6
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 24, 2015 11:24:06 GMT -6
I did the handle bar cover/speedo suround on a friends scooter that was pretty well dinged up and it looks like new. Did very little to patch the dings too. Krylon fusion hammer tone. Covered with a rough dark gray metalic finish. Now you got me thinking I should paint my new to me klx250. There are no dings on it which isn't bad for a 2009 and I would have to get the decals off. I really liked that fusion paint, its made to bond to plastic chemically. My bike is green/white just like most of the other kaw's and I would like to make it mine! I spent 30 minutes getting the first decal off with my fingernails, then pulled out a blowdryer and got the rest off in 3 minutes! |
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New Paint Job
by: jerryscript - Jul 23, 2015 11:18:56 GMT -6
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 23, 2015 11:18:56 GMT -6
I've never tried a pearl top coat. I would love to see it, please post pics when you can
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New Paint Job
by: jerryscript - Jul 23, 2015 2:48:58 GMT -6
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 23, 2015 2:48:58 GMT -6
I only used two small cans of the base color, and a 1/4 of a can of the black. The primer covered the yellow completely with 1 1/2 cans. Two large cans of clearcoat gave me four coats. We didn't finish to a high glossy shine, he wanted more of a matte finish allowing the metallic flake to provide the shine, so four coats was plenty.
Rough up the plastic really good so the primer has something to hold on to, especially the edges and joints, they are first to chip without a good roughing up to bond to.
Before sanding the primer, fog it with some color as a guide coat. You'll be able to easily see if you missed any spots.
While sanding the primer, be gentle on the edges, it's very easy to sand through edges. A light hand and patience seem to be the key, otherwise you'll waste time respraying where you sanded through.
Plan on using pinstripes or some other border where two colors meet, its much easier than cleaning up the tape lines. If you zoom in on the swoosh in the side panel, you can see what I'm talking about. I've since applied thin pinstripe around the edges covering the flaws, simple and looks great.
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New Paint Job
by: jerryscript - Jul 22, 2015 22:56:26 GMT -6
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 22, 2015 22:56:26 GMT -6
What equipment did you use to apply the paint? I like it a lot. Thanks! Rattle cans. Dupli-Color from Pep Boys. |
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 21, 2015 23:34:31 GMT -6
Has any one tried to buy modeling clay in the last few years? I tried to find some to use to protect an area next to a weld last winter and all I could find was play dough! It did do what I wanted though. Here in Vegas we have several shops that carry all sorts of clays, mostly for firing your creations in their kilns, but modeling clays as well. |
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 21, 2015 18:52:43 GMT -6
If you don't hear the noise with the head off, put some modeling clay on top of the piston, turn it by hand, then check to see if the piston is hitting a valve, the clay will be pressed thru at one spot if so, if you don't see any of the piston thru the clay, its something else.
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 21, 2015 18:41:07 GMT -6
Thanks! I'm realizing those of us who like yellow are apparently in the minority!
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 21, 2015 16:12:19 GMT -6
My nephew turned 17 last month, so I decided to hand down my beloved 50cc yellow Znen to him. Unfortunately, I am the only one in the family that liked the yellow and black paint, so over the past two days I put a new teal(ish) and black (both with metallic flakes) paint job on it. I ran out of primer, and the store also was out of the primer I started with, so I did a light base coat of the black mettalic paint on the two lighter pieces before applying the teal top coat, which matched up pretty nice in the end. Kept details to a minimum, only using the metallic black on the top of the front fender and accent swooshes on the side panels. My nephew is happy,so I guess I am, though I miss my little yellow bumblebee! Here are a few photos, primer, top coat, and clear coated back on the scooter.     |
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cvt trans
by: jerryscript - Jul 12, 2015 10:54:29 GMT -6
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 12, 2015 10:54:29 GMT -6
With proper weights for your weight and riding style, together with a Gates or Bando belt, should get you thousands of miles of carefree twist and go riding.
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 10, 2015 10:15:12 GMT -6
The great thing about the MSF course is that it's been created by and taught by motorcycle riders. It's not some professor spouting off about theory, it's experience being handed down! You will not regret the time or money spent on the MSF course!
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 8, 2015 19:51:23 GMT -6
As long as it has DOT certification, the only things that matter are a snug fit, and comfortable to wear. Looks are up to your taste, and should be the last consideration after choosing proper fit and feel.
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Post by jerryscript on Jul 7, 2015 21:06:39 GMT -6
Valves first, then adjust your carb.
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