Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 18, 2017 15:05:55 GMT -6
I was going to buy a 300 kit on eBay, then got to looking at specs for wridt pin. The 300 piston actually uses a SMALLER pin! BUT!/But, that was the stock piston. I had planned don just buying. a300 cylinder and piston kit but.... I nevr kbew they had a bbk for these.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 18, 2017 14:45:48 GMT -6
The J Costa type varis with the "pill" shaped weights are evil. They are high end and for a good reason. Better belt travel and less wear from friction on the weights. Thoseghigsare used by a lot of race teams AND those little drag type mini bikes. There will be a noticeable difference in the speed and response. The local scooter shop dude has a Helix identical to mine same mods but his is equipped with the J Costa pil type vari. He's faster off the line and has more top end. Better mpg too. Of I could afford one, I would have to get one. But....$$$$$$
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on Jul 24, 2016 22:01:26 GMT -6
It has a spring loaded clutch type thing under it That thing actually reminds me if a Torque Driver. I can see wear patterns where it was spinning on the impeller. It had to have been working some, as the bike never over heated......I simply noticed the leak one day... I have ordered the entire pump, its the same damn price so buy the kit when the while thing us available rim the same supplier as the kit for he same price? Ain't nothing about this damn pump makes any sense.....
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on Jul 24, 2016 20:21:49 GMT -6
The trade sentence was only a joke man....lol by the way you spelled released it seems you aren't in the states . .
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on Jul 24, 2016 20:20:44 GMT -6
Hard sieze. That sucks.....sounds like either the injection pump isn't working right, OR you are running the engine lean. An air leak could also cause a lean condition and lead to seizure. At the very least you will be needing to hone the cylinder and inspect everything closely. Odds are you will need a complete piston kit as well as honing the jug. You should also inspect the crank bearings to make sure the crank rotated smoothly. I have soft siezed and hard siezed my Mina several times and it still runs strong. The older 2t motors are built strong and will take a hella bearing and still run great. Good luck man hope things work out for ya. If you don't want to mess with it, I will gladly take it off your hands.....possibly a trade with a Honda Helix. .
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on Jul 24, 2016 20:11:35 GMT -6
Help!!!!! While replacing the water pump gasket on my Cyprus, I noticed that the water pump impeller would spin free on its drive shaft and the shaft would spin free of it. I immediately thought the pump was bad si I removed it I noticed that it was a rebuild able unit so I took it apart. Then I noticed that it has some type of spring loaded clutch thing under the impeller.
Do these things work differently than the water pumps on a car? Do these need water pressure to engage that clutch thing? Or, do I need to get a rebuild kit or new pump?mmm
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on May 11, 2016 10:40:52 GMT -6
Yeah, thank Alleyoop, I honestly appreciate the h e c k out of it.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on May 10, 2016 17:16:55 GMT -6
That's as good as it gets for a stick bike filter.
Later you can upgrade the oil system to have a REAL filter.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on May 10, 2016 16:43:21 GMT -6
OUCH!!!!!! I am glad they list the bearing type and seal sizes. 31$ for a five dollar bearing!!!!!! NO WAY. I wonder how many people actually order parts from them??? Saw the stock Kiehin nock off for 432.00$, same carb on fee bay for 50$ or less. Ridiculous. Thank for the link though. I went there to find the Variator nut size, and only found the Honda clone type parts. They list an entire replacement engine on that page for 1120 bux, but fail to provide a picture. Huhmmm? Hope those are the correct dimensions, I am going to order a set I hope both of the bearings and seals are the same dimension.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on May 10, 2016 12:12:12 GMT -6
Hey y'all, it's me , AGAIN.
This probably isn't the right place for this question, but I figured this section probably sees the most traffic, so what the hey?
Okay, I am looking to disassemble and rebuild the gearbox on my 08 Rockets MC 54 250B with the Linhai 257cc clone.
I am hopefully going to be able to reuse the gears and spline shafts, but I know I will NEED new bearings and seals. I have searched here, and my other three favorite scooter forums, and could not find this info anywhere. Can someone, anyone please tell me what bearings and seals I will need to order. I do not want to have to disassemble everything to see, and then have to leave the scoot apart for a couple weeks, while I wait for parts.
I wouldn't be doing this, but noticed a metallic content in the gear oil when I changed it this morning. I know that a small amount of shavings are to be expected in a gear mesh area, but the sheer amount I found has me worried a bit. That metal can not be good for the bearings.
Any one that can help, I appreciate it.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on May 10, 2016 8:15:50 GMT -6
+1 on cyborg.
Sounds like a minor soft sieze or vacuum drop causing it to starve for fuel.
Using the injection pump AND a 45:1 mix is probably too much oil. If you are going to keep the pump, drop the pre mix down to about 50, or 60:1 plus the pump.
I honestly ran both for A SHORT while, and 50:1 was my max on the premix end.
Oh, check the reeds VERY closely, my ETon was acting odd, running uber rich for a few minutes then going so lean it would soft sieze or over heat. I can't guarantee the reeds were the issue, but after checking, then decking the cage and flipping the petals, it ran like a new bike.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on May 9, 2016 9:42:07 GMT -6
Aluminum versus cast iron for a 2t cylinder kit is an age old argument. Aluminum is great for race kits and expierience rider/mechanics. Cast Iron kits are great for mid race and Street set ups, and for people that are not as mechanically inclined as some.
Aluminum kits tend to be ported more aggressively, and need to be run a bit richer than a similar cast iron bore.
I am running a Polini Corsa with a Technigas and a 19mm round Mikuni with an 85 main. I have had that bike at a consistent 48mph. Not too fast, but it sits on 10 inch skins and has the useless thirteen something to one gears.
Aluminum kits are easier to ruin with an overheat, or a lean burn causing a soft sieze. Both types have their ups and downs. My cast iron kit has never gotten over 340 f. CHT. The stock iron 49cc bore ran that hit, at times a but hotter. Either type will give you miles if smiles if cared for and set up right.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by 2stroked on May 7, 2016 10:28:53 GMT -6
Well, yesterday I FINALLY got to ride it.... Waited till Wednesday for the vari nut to be delivered, and when I got it together,, it started friggin raining..
I was able to test things out yesterday. I noticed a major improvement. It launched hella hard, and topped out at a GPS verified 81mph, and still had more, I just ran out if real estate.
Measured belt travel by marking the halves with a sharpie. There's only an eighth of an inch at the top that doesn't get belt travel. Better than I expected. About perfect I believe. If it were to try to go any farther up, it would derail or snap the belt. I am tickled that it has that much travel.
The take off is as hard, maybe harder than the Helix, and harder than this bike has EVER launched.
Didn't hear any rattle or added noise from the lack of grease in the vari either.I put a very thin film of grease on the rollers, then wipes most if that off. I did grease the boss and the journal, but used less than a quarter of how much I took out. Couldn't be happier with the results.
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Post by 2stroked on May 6, 2016 11:35:00 GMT -6
Looks kinda like a dang Jonway I wrenched on a few weeks ago.
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Post by 2stroked on May 6, 2016 11:33:46 GMT -6
50cc " gy6 " most common type of four stroke scooter motor. Also referred to as 139qmb I THINK the extra p in the etching in the crankcase is just a manufacturer identifier,not sure tho.
Easy motor to repair, build up, and find parts for.
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