Recent Posts  By   (Read times)

I realize that is what the vent hose to the filter, then hung high enough so it will drain back into the valve cover, the only problem that I have with that is if you ride a lot at WOT, you can blow oil out of the vent tube to the point where you can actually wind up out of or low on oil. I personally wouldn't want to take the chance on the oil draining back into the valve cover and possibly getting into the engine via the intake valve. That's why I thought that draining it back into the crankcase via the fill hole would perhaps be a better idea. Not trying to be difficult with you at all, rather just making an attempt to explain myself so you can more understand my why's. If I can say it that way? LOL

newbonsuperhornet: 99% of all the information the guys and gals give you on this forum is spot on and you can take it to the bank!!! However, there are different schools of thought on a couple of things mentioned by you.

I have found that the best way to "break-in" a new engine is to ride it like you intend for it to perform, with one difference. You must vary your speed. Wide open throttle for too long will/can do harm to these llittle engines. WOT for extended time and distance can cause blow-by in a brand new engine and result in the blowing out of oil, which obviously is not a good thing. Break it in with varying speeds, from slow to fast.

Another thought is the octane used in these little engines. They can have compression up to 150 to 185 psi, which makes them very high compression engines. It's my opinion, (and others) that regular gasoline will cause them to "ping" which is Pre Ignition Knock and that isn't good for them either... hard on pistons and valves. That's why I use only premium gas in mine. Actually I only use Shell V-Power. It's 93 octane and I get absolutely no ping and really good performance. In addition, there is no ethanol in the Shell V-Power fuel. Ethanol destroys gaskets in the carb and also is death on the rubber fuel lines on these little engines. I know that sprocket disagrees with me on this subject, but I think that we have agreed to disagree.

In the long run, you must be the one to decide how you want your new scoot broken in and what fuel to use, but I suggest that you do some research on your own and make a decision that you can live with.

No matter what way you decide, everyone on here only has your best interest and the best interest of you new scooter at heart.

I just listend and watched your video. It souinds like it's a bad battery to me. Did you take the battery to a shop or to autozone and have it load tested? That is the telling test! I just had a battery that was acting like yours and it was holding 12.8v at rest. Took it to an Orielly's parts store and had it load tested. Test result was "BAD BATTERY"!

The fellas have given you some good information on how to get the cowling off and gain access to the headlight. I would recommend that when you reassemble it that you dip the tip of each screw into some silicon just before installing them. They seem to hold a bit better and not work loose as easily. I second the being careful with aligning the tabs on it. They will break quite easily if you don't get them in just right.

I was just wondering; instead of just emptying the catch can occasionally, if it would be better to perhaps modify the plastic like dipstick: Cut the measure off and drill a hole through it and install a brass nipple on the top side. Then you could actually run a drain hose from the bottom of the catch can to the oil fill hole. I think the vent opening in the can would have to be large enough in diameter so it wouldn't actually force the oil back into the crank-case, but allow it to drain via gravity. Any thoughts on this? I may try this on my 150cc.

I'm to the point where I needed this scooter to start, so I can adjust the carb. No such luck! Messed with it most of the day, yesterday and finally took the batt to O'Rielly's and had it load tested. Bad Battery! So now have to wait until neighbor can get the money for a new battery. She's got right at 42 dollars in parts in it now. It's a 7 amp battery and the dealer gets 45 for a new one. Her brother told her that I was too thorough and that she should have just had it patched up so it would run! LOL Sorry, but I just don't do things that way. I feel that if it's worth doing then it's worth doing right! Instilled in me by my Grandfather!

gti .... You stated in one of your first posts that you removed the starter and it would not run either in the scoot or out of it! I thinki there is oone of your problems. With the starter out of the scoot; a "hot" wire to the starter and the starter grounded it should run like a banshee! If it won't turn, get a new starter.